1-1/2-inch or 2-inch sash brush
2-inch or 3-inch paintbrush
Roller covers (Nap depending on the surface)
Paint can opener
Roller tray liner
Mineral spirits for oil based products
Probably the hardest part of a painting project is getting prepared and ready to paint.
Begin by removing as much furniture as possible from the room. Use drop cloths to cover the floor and any remaining furniture. While plastic is ideal for furniture, canvas drop cloths absorb paint, are not slippery, will not move, and can be reused.
Next, remove any pictures, mirrors, window treatments, and electrical/light switch plates. Loosen the ceiling plates of hanging light fixtures and cover the fixtures.
Because surface dirt can cause poor adhesion, use a light detergent to wash surfaces that are soiled, that are touched often, or that may have any oily residue from cooking. Take care not to leave any residue from the detergent. Ask the folks at Woodstock Hardware about using TSP as a cleaner. You do not need to worry about leaving a residue behind when using this all-purpose, nontoxic cleaner.
After the preparation has been completed you will need to decide if any of your surfaces require priming. Priming seals the surface and prolongs the wet edge of finished coats, reducing lap marks and ensuring a uniform color and luster. Of course all bare, or unpainted surfaces require priming. Additionally, any absorbent surfaces, such as wood paneling, or any dark surface that will be repainted with a light color requires priming.
There is a common myth that walls that have been painted many times do not need priming, but many layers of latex paint can actually result in a surface that is very absorbent and requires priming.
It is usually not necessary to apply primer to sashes, trim and doors that already have an enamel finish. However, if extensive repair work has been done, you should apply a primer to these areas. You should prime any large surfaces following the procedures listed below for applying the topcoat finishes.)
After the primer is dry you are finally ready for the fun part: painting. The sequence in which you paint your room can help you work more efficiently. If you are painting the entire room, start with the ceiling and then paint the walls.
You can now start painting the walls. Once your ceiling is dry, return to the spot where you began painting. Use a trim brush to carefully cut in along the wall-ceiling line.
If you are not comfortable cutting in freehand, allow your ceiling to dry and mask off the edge with low-tack painter’s tape. Wait at least 24 hours before applying tape to fresh latex paint to prevent paint from coming off when you remove the tape.
Paint along the baseboard and around the door and window trim, one wall at a time. When you paint with a partner, one should cut in while the other follows, applying paint with a roller.
When using more than one can of paint for a particular job, “Boxing” paint ensures color consistency. Boxing paint is the process of combining all the paint you will be using into one large container. This is especially important when painting a large surface area such as a home’s exterior, where even a slight color variation from one can of paint to another is markedly visible. For most interior jobs, an empty 5-gallon container works fine. Simply pour all cans of the same color paint into the large container, and stir to combine. Whether you are mixing 2 or 20 gallons of paint together, the key is to make sure all the paint is combined to ensure a single, uniform color. Once the paint is combined, you can pour it into a smaller can or paint tray for ease of application.
If you need to stop in the middle of the project or at the end of the project, you will need to clean up, store any extra paint for touch up work, and dispose of any leftover paint. Following are a few hints for cleaning up:
Water – Based (Latex) Paints
How to Progress
Caring for Your Brushes and Supplies
Helpful Exterior Tips